Are you stuck?

I get a lot of inquiries about general knitting help, and unfortunately I don't have the opportunity to provide individual knitting help or answer questions about the patterns beyond what is stated in my instructions.

But I would like to help you as best as possible so that you can reach your goal. So if you have questions about a recipe or a technique, I recommend:

1. Read carefully

Read the pattern carefully and follow the instructions step by step. One stitch/line at a time :) Often you can't get a pattern to work because you haven't read it carefully enough, or your head automatically guesses what to do. If something seems difficult, try it out. Better to try it out a few times than assume you can't. That's how you become a good knitter. If you're not satisfied, you pick it up and try again :) We who have been knitting for many years also do that when we have to learn new techniques.

2. Ask a friend

Seek help in knitting groups on Facebook or Ravelry – there are many skilled knitters who can give good advice. However, remember not to share pictures/excerpts of the pattern that reveal too much. Maybe search for the hashtag on Instagram and find other knitters who have knitted the same design, maybe you can see what they have done.

If you have bought yarn at your local knitting store, they will also often help if there is something you don't understand.

It can also be nice to sit down with a good knitting friend and knit together if something is bothering you.

3. Check YouTube

Use Youtube! both on my own channel but also on others (e.g. Kimmie Munkholm ), you can find a whole lot of general knitting help for all sorts of different techniques. Watching it all on video can sometimes be easier than reading it.

If you can't find it in Danish, maybe research what the English word is for the technique and search for that instead. Even though the videos may be in another language, you can still see what they do.

Frequently Asked Questions

The number of stitches does not match

If the number of stitches does not match, it can be due to several things. Have you counted correctly? Remember to check whether, for example, raglan stitches are counted in the number of stitches on, for example, the front/back piece, or whether they are stated separately. If 4 stitches are missing, it is often 4 raglan stitches that have been counted incorrectly.

Double check if you have made the correct number of increases with simple math. If you have knitted for example 10 times with increases on each side of the raglan, then you have 10x8 = 80 new stitches since you cast on. If you have for example fewer stitches than this, then you have forgotten some increases and that is where the mistake lies. Always do these "easy" calculations if possible, then you can easily find out if you have forgotten any increases.

Are you making decreases the correct way? Read the description at the beginning of the pattern to see how to make decreases. This can make a difference.

Finally, I would like to remind you that it may not be a disaster if you are missing one stitch. If you have a pattern that needs to be worked out, then of course it is important, but if there is just one stitch missing somewhere, then maybe you can just cast on a new one? Or ignore it completely, if it is for example on a scarf or something else where it will never be noticed? If you are suddenly missing a stitch, always check your work for lost stitches - just to make sure that nothing is unraveling ;)

I don't know the technique used.

Start by seeing if I haven't included an explanation at the beginning of the recipe/book. Here I often have small explanations of techniques and abbreviations that I use in the recipe. Google/youtube possibly the technique, there are many good videos online that can help you see it rather than read it.

My pattern doesn't look like the diagram or your picture.

Try to create a visual overview of the diagram/my picture and compare it with your knitted pattern. For example, if the knit stitches in the diagram are on top of each other, they should also be on your knitting.

If necessary, place stitch markers between each repeat of a diagram on the round, so the pattern doesn't move for you and you can easily see where things might go wrong.

Sometimes it's best to just untangle and try again and read the recipe with fresh eyes. We all need that sometimes.

Remember that a chart is always read from right to left when knitting in the round. If you knit back and forth, the chart is read from left to right on the purl rows.

I would like to use a different yarn than yours?

You can definitely do that! The yarn I recommend in the pattern is ALWAYS just a yarn suggestion. You can easily find something else. Remember, however, that the finished result can always vary slightly depending on which yarn you use.

First look at the knitting tension - it's important! Choose another yarn that can meet the same knitting tension as the yarn I used. If there is no knitting tension mentioned on the yarn, also look at the running length. Here you can often get an indication of whether the thickness of the yarn is the same as the one I used. Note that the running length can only be used for comparison if the yarn's fiber composition is roughly the same. For example, you can't compare a running length of wool and cashmere, as cashmere is very light, so here it's safest to go by the recommended knitting tension.

If you want to achieve a result that is as similar as possible to what I have knitted, then in addition to the same knitting tension, you should also go for the same fiber type or one that is similar. A sweater knitted in, for example, Norwegian wool will look different in pure cotton. But as long as the knitting tension is right, it should fit the measurements.

Always remember to do a test stitch. Especially if you knit in a different yarn, you can't count on the needle size I recommend (but always be sure and do a test stitch no matter what - we all knit differently).

Read more about replacing yarn right here.

Why don't you specify the difficulty level?

I rarely state difficulty levels on recipes as it can often be misleading. It is very individual what you find difficult. Some will still struggle with icord edges after 2 years, while others knit complicated patterns without problems after 2 weeks. I therefore have a hard time assessing what exactly you find difficult. It is better to look at the recipe yourself and assess whether you think it looks like something you dare to tackle. I would be disappointed if I said a recipe was easy and you then thought it was difficult, or even worse if you stayed away from a recipe I have rated difficult because you don't think you can do it - you might be able to do it. And you only get better by trying something new every now and then :) Should it turn out that the recipe is too difficult, put it away for a while and find it again in 6 months, then it might be easier for you :)