What does knitting tension mean?

The gauge tells you how many stitches and rows you get per 10x10 cm. This is the most important part when finding yarn alternatives because it ensures that your finished project is the right size. Even a single stitch on 10 cm turns into a lot of stitches on an entire sweater. So if your gauge slips by just one stitch, you could risk going up or down a whole size.

Always match the knitting tension first.

If the yarn is the same thickness but the knitting tension does not fit, you can adjust with the needle size.

If you have FEWER stitches on your knitting sample than you need, then you need your stitches to take up less space (so you can make room for more stitches), and you should therefore try a SMALLER needle size. Start by going down 0.5 mm and see if that is enough.

If you have MORE stitches on your knitting sample than you need, then you need the stitches to fill up more (so you have room for fewer stitches), and you should therefore try a slightly LARGER needle size. Start by going up 0.5 mm and see if that is enough.

Always make a knitting sample – it is the best “insurance” for a good result.

How to compare fibers

The fiber from which the yarn is spun has a great impact on both the appearance, durability and feel.

Here is a little guide:

Wool: Elastic, warm and shape-retaining. Good for sweaters and projects that need to hold their shape.

Merino: Soft and slightly heavier than regular wool. Great for both clothing and accessories.

Silk: Gives shine and a beautiful drape, but can stretch a little longer. Perfect for shawls and lightweight tops.

Alpaca: Very soft and heavier than wool. Has more drape and less elasticity.

Mohair/silk-kid: Airy and fluffy. Changes the expression significantly, but not always the knitting tension.

Plant fibers (cotton/linen): Less elastic, heavier and more drapey. Good for summer projects.

If you choose a fiber that behaves differently than the original, you will also get a different look – it is not dangerous, but something you should be aware of.

Yarn that drapes vs. yarn that fills

Some yarns "fall" softly, while others "stand" more firmly:

Draping yarns: Silk, alpaca, viscose, plant fibers

– Perfect for tops, light sweaters, shawls and scarves.

Fuller yarns: Wool, merino, mohair

– Perfect for sweaters and cardigans with support and structure.

If you want a result close to the original, choose a yarn that behaves in the same way.

My recommendations for typical yarn alternatives

You can use this little rule of thumb when changing yarn:

Lace / thin mohair: Swap with another lace mohair or a thin alpaca silk.

Fingering: Swap with another fingering in the same fiber.

Sport: Swap with fingering knit a little tighter or thin DK knit looser.

DK: Replace with light worsted or two-strand fingering.

Worsted: Swap with heavy DK or thin aran.

If in doubt, focus on knitting tension + fiber + feel between the fingers .